Continuing on with YOUR Questions!
Kevin Pohl Says:
Ok so, I seem to have a trump card opportunity with this weeks blog request. And I’m sure you are tired of me nagging you with this question, but you did say that you were gonna blog about this, and you still haven’t written me your thoughts on this
so here it goes. I would like you to blog about: “How does a photographer go about defining his/her creative vision? Is it something that you just have or do you need to develop it? And, if a photographer struggles with finding his/her own voice as an artist with a vision, can that photographer take certain steps to develop and define that creative vision? ” Hope you’ll blog about this soon, as it’s an important question on everyone’s lips. Everybody says, create your vision!, build your portfolio!, and market like crazy! But nobody tells us HOW to create that VISION part of the equation. Love your work, and this Blog! It’s Awesome!
Poor Kevin! He’s right…….he’s written to me personally a few times with his question. And I kept writing back to him promising I will blog about it soon. I don’t know why I keep putting it off…it sort of hits a nerve, I guess. He asks, “How does a photographer go about defining his/her creative vision?” Is he asking, how do you define your vision or your Photography STYLE? Your style is the look and feel of your work as a definitive and continuing stream. Is your work moody and surreal? Is it bright happy? Is it colorful and smiley? Or is it dark and thoughtful? These are words that would be used to describe the look or STYLE of your work. And yes, as a photographer that wants to compete in the market, a style is something that art directors and editors look for when they look at your work.
First of all, before you start defining your style, you need to figure out what facet of fashion photography you like shooting the most. Do you like “Lifestyle”? Happy, shiny teenage girls playing frisbee on the beach with maybe a dog; golden retriever or dalamation is perfect for this! No pitbulls, please. Throw in a couple of jock looking teenage boys and a picnic blanket (bright pink, ok?). I personally disdain this kind of work. Therefore, you don’t see it in my book, or anywhere near my name. I’ve nothing against it but if I was forced to shoot this kind of work in order to call myself a fashion photographer, well, I’d rather go into something else, like criminal profiling (yep, secret fantasy job). But Lifestyle work pays and pays WELL. I absolutely hate showing you an example of a fashion lifestyle shot, but here you go: ( I didn’t shoot this! )
Images by Larry Bartholomew
Another facet is Beauty. Big, huge cosmetic campaigns. Read: $$! Do you like faces, tight shots, beautiful lips. Fabulous make up work? Beauty is another facet of our industry that you can focus on and become known for that work. Or, does Haute Couture make you faint? It makes me faint and that’s where I wanted to place myself in the spectrum of fashion photography. I’m a glutton for talented fashion designers and I go weak over exquisite fashion design. Pleats really do it for me. Tulle? Gets me going! But it’s not for everyone.
Once you’ve figured out what type of fashion photography you like doing, you then set out to shoot work in that vein. Big dramatic, sweeping gowns in a studio with beautiful light! That would be the kind of shoots you would focus on to build a portfolio geared toward high fashion. If you want to be a lifestyle shooter, then gather the teens up and head to the wheat fields, the lakes, the beach, whatever fab nature is near you and shoot in that late afternoon sun! Make sure everyone is smiling and happy!
I suppose it’s a regional thing too. I’ve always been based out of big city where defining your style is a must. However, if you live in areas where there’s not a TON of fashion work, then you’ll probably want to cross into other areas so you can get work in all facets. I personally feel that this confuses potential clients. You think you’re showing them work that conveys that ” you can shoot it ALL”. But art directors don’t look for that. They look for the books that come in that are defining the ad campaign they are working on. If an art director is working on a big perfume campaign, he’s not going to call in books from photographers who shoot lifestyle or catalogue. And vice versa, of course. My book doesn’t get called in to lifestyle. Unless it’s a friend and she knows I can very well shoot it and I’ll do it for the money but I am not going to start putting that kind of work in my book because I don’t want to be “known” as a lifestyle shooter.
Now, if Kevin is asking me how do I define my vision, then that’s a completely different answer. My vision is what makes me move throughout the day as an artist. And it’s hard to describe in words. I was talking to my assistant, Carmen, about it because I was a little confused by the question. Carmen helped me break down the thought process behind a concept for a shoot by asking me what inspires me initially and then where do I go from there, step by step. So let me give you an example of just how that goes down:
I recently went to an open call that an agency here in LA set up for me to come in and see their new faces. I met a model there named Lulu. A tall Chinese girl with a beautiful face!
Image by Rodney Ray
I knew immediately I wanted to shoot Lulu but didn’t have the concept for it. I told her agent just that! “I want to shoot Lulu, let me figure out how and what and where and I’ll get back to you.” I then walked out and I let it go. A couple of days later, with Lulu’s card sitting on my work bench to remind me that I want to shoot this particular model, I start thinking of what I want to do with Lulu. Studio? Location? Lighting? Clothes? I show her card to a few stylists to see their reaction, maybe it will get the juices going and we can start throwing ideas back and forth. But nope, nothing earth shattering came out of the stylists mouths even though every one agreed she’s got something unique and they’re happy to style it so let them know when I have the concept! A few more days went by and I am not sure how I got to this point but I remembered a shoot I did with another Asian girl where I shot her in a studio against a green screen and then went down to Chinatown on my own and shot long shutter exposed background shots.
I learned a lot from that shoot. I learned it looked too “shopped” and I should’ve just taken the girl down to the actual location and shot her there. It looked to “posed”. Plus the girl then was way too young, like 14 and she looked uncomfortable in the shots. She was too shy for the sexy, dark, steamy atmosphere that I was trying to convey. I always wanted to re-shoot the idea because I have this fascination with Asia ever since I read Maguerite Duras’ “The Lover” when I was 19. Her descriptions of the room where the lovers met and the scenery of Vietnam in that particular era are just a exquisite.
Voila’!! There’s the concept. Take Lulu down to Chinatown and take the original concept I had from years ago and shoot it the way it SHOULD be shot. I will learn from my past mistakes and do it right this time. At least that’s the goal! What do I do next? I will head down to Chinatown with David one night with my little point and shoot which will probably not have the battery charged, so then I’ll attempt to shoot it with my Blackberry which takes pretty mediocre snapshots, eat an overpriced Chinese meal and walk around looking for backgrounds to shoot the model.
I want to shoot at least 6 shots. Why 6? Well, even though it’s just a “test”, there’s a possibility of submitting it to a magazine somewhere at some point. But more importantly, I shoot tests with the goal of it landing in my book and I’m “DEFINING” (there’s that word again) my fashion photography towards fashion editorial. So the shoot should have a theme with continuity. Okay, so let’s say I’ve found a few backgrounds that will work, what do I do next? I come home and start knocking out a shot list. I actually pull up Word on the computer or if I’m not at home, I’ll use a paper napkin, any damn thing, and start numbering the “pages”. Shot 1. Shot 2. Shot 3. Sometimes it pours out of me and I fill in all 6 pages in one sitting. Sometimes I stop at 4. I don’t push myself. Maybe we’ll let it grow organically on the shoot and let spontaneity be our driver. I mean, it’s test! No client is breathing down my neck. And it’s for my book so I can get as creative as I want. Okay, what’s the next step?? What have I blogged about over and over again?? Who’s the most important person a fashion photographer aligns themselves with? Your STYLIST! I will call a couple of stylists and run the concept by them. We will talk about logistics: No budget since it’s a test so no honey wagon because I’m not forking out hundreds of dollars for a trailer. Which means the model will have to change in the car or public restrooms, which means we have to be careful with the clothes. We talk about location permits, which again I won’t fork out the moola for so we’ll have to shoot it guerilla style. Hair and make up needs to be started out at someone’s house before the shoot. We’ll figure that out closer to the shoot date.
Right now, I haven’t shot it yet. I haven’t even gone down to Chinatown yet with David. But that’s sort of how a shoot begins at birth and takes on the evolutionary process on “defining a vision”.
Now Kevin, I hope I’ve answered it all here for you! I hope it was worth the wait!! ; ) Okay, I’m going to go jump in my friends pool and not think about work for the rest of the day! A much needed break away from phones and computers! My brain won’t stop thinking, though. A Creative Vision is something that never leaves you. It’s part of your soul! And to quote one of my favorite rappers, Nas, from One Mic: ” if you need some soul searchin’, the time is now”.
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You know I’ve always thought you were cool but when you quoted Nas it doubled the cool factor, lol No really, loved this blog because as a new photographer I’ve been struggling with both style and vision. Working on my book now, I really want to define my style so that these directors know what they will get.
Anyway, I could go on but let me say…I LOVE when I see your blog in my inbox AND love that you are accessible.
Thanks for everything!
Melissa, just what I needed right now!! Your exquisite writing about god damn real stuff! And that pool at the end, it just made me remember ours … ah, what a wonderful day that was
But more will come … Take care!
I’d say you define your own vision through your experience/lifestyle/favourite visual stimulii – then use it for the work area that most accepts it. Helmut Newton never shot lifestyle either – sheesh can you imagine it? Follow your heart then follow your brain.
Like a ring to my finger, I’m completely exhausted and drowning in work and i recently got a call for my first formal fashion shoot and i think ive been so anxious that i cant seem to put it all together.
Sometimes the things u mention seem so obvious yet we forget about em.
so looks like ill be doing some daydreaming and scrapping cuz this is where it starts
Yet another excellent post, Melissa! I’ll have to work harder in defining my style.
Awesome article! There are so many things I want to re-shoot
And what serendipitous timing! I’m headed out tonight to do my own take on the Chinatown shoot 
I can’t WAIT to see what you do!!! 
Oh clearly, some guerrilla shooting at the SINCERE IMPORTS is in order, something just fabulously sincerely sexy and decadent … great post, enjoyed it!
Another excellent post, Melissa! Thank You Keep them Coming : )
Great article again Melissa, the section you posted about lifestyle made me laugh, I feel the same way! lol;D
Haha….John! See, this is exactly why you need to do the DVD with me.
This post brought a huge smile to my face after getting home from a long day at the office. Such a refreshing article to read! I’ve always looked for tidbits into other photographers’ developments into their own styles (esp. from established ones like yourself), and it always makes my day when I catch even a glimpse of it. I’m constantly thinking about how I’m going to evolve myself further in photography (the same high-end fashion give me a rush as well) and how I’m going to continue to get the world to see what I’m passionate about.
As always, thanks for sharing your thoughts!
JoeyB
Melissa, Thanks for your blogs and detailed “behind the scenes” info on fashion photography. It is very helpful to hear of your experiences and techniques.
Really great post Melissa, Thank you !
Melissa, I saw the e-mail come in earlier on my berry about today’s topic and I can relate to your hesitation about responding to this question. I didn’t get to read then, but throughout the afternoon I was wondering in anticipation about how you will answer and you nailed it! The examples of the creative channel one might follow with regard to their comfort zone, passion and “style” were great. By going on to share what makes you tick within your creative universe and detail your inspiration and approach as it comes in a “real time” work opportunity, wheter it’s portfolio, personal work or an assignment, was perfect and inspirational. You have once again delivered another realistic insight that will help many of us grow our art and therefore our business…”vision”! All I can humbly add is that whenever I find myself wondering about my vision, I go shoot another thousand frames or so and then I get a little bit closer…It’s like my vision is coaching me, helping me see my mistkes and asking me as a human being if the images really “strike a chord”. If you start to get your shots up on screen and then you say, “wow that’s really f—’n cool!”, you might be getting closer to your vision
Vision will only be defined by itself. Our gift of uniqueness will show itself when the time is right; it can’t be taught or plucked from thin air, it has to be concieved as if by magic, born into our conciousness and nurtured. When it is here, you wont have to ask.
Finally a fotographer that talks vision beside Ansel! Thank you for the public soul searching!
Well, Obviously, you made my day
Thanks for that inspirational piece of insight!
guerilla style love it.. great blog once again.. my creativity is already going..
this couldn’t come at a better time when i am looking to define what my photography is abt. i having been losing sleep, getting frustrated, staring into blank space trying to find out how to define myself.
Thank you Melissa, I have been thinking about this subject a lot here lately and your article has helped me in several areas. THANKS!
thank you melissa! this answered about a million questions i’ve had but had no one to ask. it turns out, based on this post, that i’m on the right track and i couldn’t be happier. i am so glad i found your blog. you’ve inspired me and have been a pseudo-mentor for the last few months that i’ve been reading your blog. you’re the best and i can’t wait for more.
this is so amazing im going through this process right now with an idea i have. With your details added to what i was “guesstimating” really helps. I am now able to move forward with my idea and get something good.
Melissa, as a photographer, I’m consistently blown away by the quality of your work; you have such an obvious feel for what you do. I also find your blogs concise, relevant, informative and just plain f—ing inspiring! I enjoy reading every one of them and look forward to the next. Your writing style just couldn’t be better! This blog in particular, really strikes a chord that resonates within me. For I, like many photographers, need to more clearly define my vision, style and focus more where my passion leads me. Rather than showing us how, you show us the process. I now have much to think about. Thanks for furnishing me with the kick in the ass I needed.
You make it abundantly clear that one doesn’t “just get lucky” in this field. It takes huge amounts commitment and hard work. Thank you for taking the time and sharing the behind the scenes, “real world” experiences of a talented professional with us. Your inspiration is beyond priceless. And once again, regarding your blogs, especially on this topic, keep-um’ coming, they are greatly appreciated!
Warm Regards,
Ken
THANK YOU SO MUCH for posting this! Having an idea of how someone like you goes about the creative process for a shoot is amazing and probably more informative then you realize. You are an amazing inspiration for me.
Very Nice Defining!
But, the best tip to define yourself:
“expect the best, be prepared for the worst,
fuck what others think & do your own thing!”
You are an extension of the camera. A large part of fashion photography has to be how well you direct your model, and of course their ability to follow direction. Nice blog, I’ll will spread the word.
That was some great insight into the process, Melissa. As for finding creative vision, I’d say the most important thing is to live breathe and eat photo. Look at photography every single day and you will automatically come to understand what you like and don’t like and what you want to do – inspired by others but in your own way.
This was brilliant info for me as i tend to dable in many styles of fashion , but realise now its so important not to be to broad by taylor a trade make style in my fashion photography etc
thank you so much
xxoo Nigel in Australia
Thanks Melissa for this brilliant post! Absolutely a good post to get me going in a direction. Cause I am still figuring out what I want to shoot, what my style is etc. Just experimenting and developing on the way
(sorry)
ow and I really enjoy that lifestyle happy thing. hahaha
Cool Blog!
Hey I hope it continues to grow as a pool for thought-sharing ..
.. Sounds like inspiration is a common denominator here..
-Jorge
always thought it was hard to find own style in anything. this is very insightful and inspiring.
fantastic!
Gorgeous shots, amazing!
Hi Melissa,
Thanks for pointing your blog out to your Flickr group. I hadn’t looked here before but will be sure to check back now.
Great article. It’s sometimes really hard to nail things like this down and maybe this is something that can only be defined after you’ve started to develop a personal style.
Pat
Its good to hear again the importance of keeping a single style and not trying to make everyone happy.
For vision, it would be interesting to have you keep us up to date with this particular idea. It would be nice to hear how it evolves. I’ve started a blog that talks through my vision ideas. http://OpenSourcePhotoShoot.blogspot.com
This goes the same for all the arts as well. Finding your own style comes from finding what types of subjects you are drawn to, what artists are your mentors and really what moves you the most. I have found this difficult for my painting, and it has evolved into what I feel is ‘my’ style now.
Thanks for the post. Great thoughts and excellent photos!
Very good post! Explains what everyone wants and should know!
Please, i would love to know the type of backround in the first photo, i am looking it up but i am still confused!
Also the shots are wonderful, a great selection!
Thanks for posting and sharing these amazing photos that you have. This is a very nice article. Keep it up!
Hi Melissa,
As we say here in England, ‘You hit the nail on the head’, which means you got straight to the point in record time.
Recently, I’ve had a couple of discussions about define one’s style, it’s hard! how do you know your style, what is it? And do you risk being a ‘one trick pony’ (another English saying, meaning you can only do one thing, and not that versatile) if you have one style. But, what you have said makes perfect sense and I’ll be referring back to it.
Many thanks for taking the time to put your thoughts down. Next time I’m in LA, I’ll look you up.
All the best
Amanda
What a great post Melissa! Thank you. I took a lot to read it because of english is not my mother tongue, but it worth the time.