The Movie that Lets Us Inside the Coveted Domain of MY Favorite Diva
Photo by Lori Hawkins – The September Issue
Everyone has their heroes, people you look up to and draw inspiration from, and Anna Wintour is definitely one of mine. I’m sure it’s obvious why. Anyone who knows anything about the fashion industry knows Anna Wintour. Over 20 years ago she rescued American Vogue from the brink of obscurity and restored it to its Diana Vreeland-era glory days, and she’s remained one of the most important figures in the fashion industry ever since. Her eye for style is unsurpassed, her taste is impeccable, and her power and influence in this industry cannot be overstated.
Yet she remains a controversial figure within it—mostly because of her “tough” reputation. (You’ve seen The Devil Wears Prada, haven’t you? The inhumanly demanding fashion editor the title refers to is purported to have been based on Wintour.) A fiercely private person, for decades Anna let her work speak for itself. Her reticence, imperious demeanor and steely professionalism fueled her reputation as an icon who was equal parts couture genius and bitch goddess. But Anna herself remained inscrutable, above the critics and the sychophants and the imitators. Until now.
In the new documentary The September Issue, Wintour lifts the veil of mystique, not only taking us behind the scenes at Vogue but also giving us a glimpse of her entire her life as she takes us through the grueling process of putting together Vogue’s September issue—easily the most important annual published piece of work in the fashion industry, thus its nickname: The Bible.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xp8iIyKDOtk[/youtube]
The documentary gives us an unprecedented personal look at Wintour, and she doesn’t hold back. She doesn’t put on a happy face for the cameras, she openly shows her intimidating presence for all the world to see, pretty much confirming those rumors that she’s, well, “tough.” Being a woman myself, I know that you get labeled that in the process that it takes to make it to the top and stay there. I’m sorry, does that disappoint? Well, guess what: Powerful women who are in leadership positions are not normally meek, submissive, or pushovers. So I apologize to all out there who think you can be sweet and demure and still be strong and successful in the business world. You can’t. And you can’t worry about what people think. One of the things I love about Anna is that she never has—and never will—apologize for it. Now she’s letting the world see it, and I love her for that even more.
Of course, there is speculation about why she’s choosing to “out” herself and Vogue now, after so many years of secrecy and silence. The New York Post wrote: “That the most powerful and protected woman in fashion does so now—in this film, on 60 Minutes earlier this spring, on Letterman tonight—is a mystery. Except that after 20 years, with fashion in economic crisis, management consultants turning Condé Nast inside out, vulture critics circling and speculating about her own exit strategy, she must be thinking in terms of legacy.”
Well, yes—and she damn well should be. Anna is already a legend. She worked her way up from retail shopkeeper (at age 15) to Editor in Chief of American Vogue. She turns 60 this November, and her involvement in fashion—and, more importantly fashion editorial—has spanned nearly 35 years. I won’t list her resume here, you can check out her history on Wikipedia, but after reading it, you too will be amazed! She has endured heartbreaks, one-week affairs with rock stars, and a domineering father. And though she’s always had a natural affinity for style and aesthetics (her newspaper-editor father relied on her input for info on current trends amongst the younger generation), she paid her dues in the fashion trenches, working for magazines such as New York and House and Garden as well as the pornographically influenced Viva (whose publisher, Kathy Keeton, was the wife of Bob Guccione, publisher of Penthouse). In other words, Anna knows what sells, and that there IS a “dress for success”. Literally. As she aptly told her father, after quitting fashion design school at 17, “You either know fashion, or you don’t.” I couldn’t agree more. I felt the same way at 17 myself.
Maybe I paint a more sympathetic picture of Anna than most. But perhaps that’s because I know how difficult it is to maintain equilibrium in an industry that is fickle, temperamental and operates under standards unrealistic for most people. I relate to Anna in many ways: She spent 16 years working to get the job she wanted: to be editor of Vogue. I can relate to that kind of “paying dues and developing your game.” I too am highly influenced by my father, who actually wanted me around him when he designed massive homes for the rich and famous here in Los Angeles. I started out working in retail at a young age, working in the garment industry on one level or another until I began photography school at 21. My father encouraged me to go into fashion, saying it was “my calling.” To everyone else, though, I am the black sheep of my family, the one who went into a “flaky business” as my mother used to call it. But you either know fashion or you don’t. And I’ve always known it. It’s a part of me the same way that my arm is attached to my body.
Photo from The September Issue
Fashion is a tough business. All of it. You have to develop a thick skin to work in it. Anna certainly has, and it’s shielded her from inside adversaries. I admire that and I work my ass off for the same staying power as I watch my own career (and personal life, for that matter) take its turns and dips along the bumpy road of what I cannot escape because it’s in my blood: fashion. I’ll be honest: I haven’t seen The September Issue yet. I wasn’t able to catch an advance screening before its release (August 28 in NYC and September 11 nationwide). But I’ve seen a few clips and researched the hell out of it, and it looks good. It looks good because it looks honest. Anna doesn’t come out looking like she wore a mask to appeal to middle America. She’s herself to a T. All sunglass-donning, Chanel-wearing, serious-face self.
Honesty is something I think the world is sorely missing these days. With personas being developed overnight for Facebook and Myspace pages, we as a society can hide behind our own sunglasses: the computer. I feel sorry for the younger generation, who thinks that starting a Facebook page with photos they took with their point-and-shoot cameras is adequate education for their up and coming fashion photography careers. Anna is the way she is because she is a product of her environment. As am I. As are most fashion industry successes.
So take a breath and keep an open mind. You’ll never hear me bash the woman who put Vogue back on the map. That’s NOT an easy task, folks. Vogue is our bible. Vogue is what we ALL want to shoot for. Have sympathy for the Devil in Prada.
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This documentary is going to be a classic!
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I read a few topics. I respect your work and added blog to favorites.
You are so right! I found this post particularly inspiring as a female fashion shooter. I went to fashion design school and have been planning a career in fashion since I was 5. I now realize how serious I need to get in my “take no shit” attitude about shooting fashion. Thank you once again.
I still want to come and shoot with you one of these days though.
Congratulations, excellent post and insight into the fashion industry.
Hey Helen! You should definitely come out to the next shoot I do! Hope you’re well! And that you’re shooting a lot!
Oh we Brits can be soooo hard! You’re right Melissa, it takes steel to do what Anna’s done and what a woman. When some 60 year olds are putting their feet up and reading fluffy novels all day this one is still kicking ass. I take it she is your number one role model then? You could do worse.
Right you are! A whole lot worse! I’d say she is one of my role models but she’s up there. Funny thing, I love British women. Anita Pallenberg is another heroine of mine!
WOW! I can’t wait to see this film and the article is equally interesting!!! I’m sure Ana would be flattered if she ever read this
Dean
The fact that Ana has decided to expose herself after all these years is unreal! I can’t stop watching the trailer, its just too goddamn hilarious.
Anna “Do you REALLY feel this is the most important message to put in the September Issue???”"
Dumb Blonde: “I, I loved… I, I thought it was pretty”
LOLZ
i saw valentino today
and i can’t CANt wait for this
september 11th come soon, is that the release date for canada? does anyone know?
Excellent post Melissa, and well stated.
Looking forward to seeing this. And your comment, “Vogue is what we ALL want to shoot for.”, very true.
Great article (and education) for my level of fashion photography! You’re a godsend! Thanks!
Great Post!
Wonderful blog.
Your fearless honesty is refreshing.
My favorite movie and Heroin also. Great article.
Okay, totally brilliant post. Can’t wait to see the movie – and you are so right about powerful women – she is stunning in so many ways. So true that all the qualities admired in a successful MAN are labeled the “B” word whenever a woman asserts them. She’s brilliant. Love that you mentioned her work with VIVA – now that takes me back! So, we’ll have to review the movie after we’ve seen it. I’m mailing this post to you know who!
Fascinating look into the fashion industry!
Excellent post and great insight into the fashion industry and the Women like yourself that Just Have that Magic……….Style : )
Thank you
M~
Thanks for putting this up, can’t wait to see the movie. Vogue is my goal too!
I can’t wait for this to come out! I think Vogue is probably the vast majority of fashion photographers’ goal. What I find interesting is that the editor-in-chiefs across the various countries in which Vogue is published have their own different areas of expertise. Carine Roitfeld, of French Vogue, with her background as a model, has lots of experience working with photographers and photographs; British Vogue’s Alexandra Shulman creates wonderful written pieces, which is hardly surprising from someone who worked in journalism and was a newspaper columnist. What’s great about Anna, however, is that she takes every single aspect of the magazine and excels in them all.
Great post and can’t wait to see the movie.
I have been trying to shoot a bit of fashion for the last year when I get an opportunity, and each and every image has gone in the trash.
But, I will keep on shooting.
i love anna even many would called her the ICE QUEEN or a WITCH but what she does is just being a perfectionist and only wants the best for the magazine. Its not all glamourous, it is really hard work , and i agree with her quote stating “either you known fashion or you don’t”. There are some people in the fashion world who don’t know what they are doing and it shows in their works when it gets published. Is it pure laziness or too self absorbed in their own little world called ego that stops and controlled others from developing a creative process? We should all be thinking forward like anna sticking to your integrity and not taking jobs just for the money but its more for your passion to create the best that you can and If that may call you a witch then i think i am as well
Seriously amazing article Melissa… and its true you and her remind me so much of eachother! In all the good ways of course
Any woman who is ever strong and powerful is considered a “bitch”
Really really love this article. and the video as well, can wait to see it!
Crystal
I LOVE this blog and I LOVE the forum~ Thank you!
Darling, really am proud of you on this article, you have definitely outdone yourself! Ana would be thrilled!
David
I saw this movie at the Brisbane International Film Festival early this month and it’s defintely a must-see for any fashionista.
You sit in awe watching the amount of power Anna Wintour wields, you laugh at Grace Coddington’s facial expressions and Mario Testino’s crazy personality.
You leave feeling so psyched at the amount of fashion you’ve just consumed in one sitting.
I loved it, I didn’t care if the clothes were more than a year old but to be able to watch how Anna works and the people around her you forget that some things went out of style ages ago!
Thanks for your info.
I’m surprised to hear you hold American Vogue in such high regard. I haven’t paid attention to it since last year; the September ’08 cover is an affront to fashion photography. Not sure if you have it, but tell me what I’m missing if you disagree. Keira Knightley shot by Testino. I couldn’t believe it, I think I went into shock. Now look at the same issue of British Vogue: Karen Elson by Nick Knight. Now that’s a fashion cover. We won’t bring the Italian edition into play because it’s leaps and bounds ahead of the competition.
The ’09 cover of Charlize is much better. But I see the trend of putting celebrities on covers as a move away from fashion. Would love to know more of your thoughts on this.
I want so much to see this movie!
Great blog! I will start to follow!
Awesome post, thank you for the info.
Wonderful post! Thanks.
I’ll definitely be seeing this!
great post! thanks, I like the shot…
Hi! I just love your blog. I have a blog about fashion photography of my own too and your blog inspires me. Thanx
http:\\poisonmandyphotoblog.blogspot.com
Hey Melissa.
I have one question that is not about this post but I don’t know where to find the answer so I will try here anyway.
If I do a backstage video, may i use some commercial song for free?
i swear i would love it if all the local LA photographers watched this together!
Can’t wait to see it here, thank you for this blog, its reminds me how much i want this career and that i need to be strong, but i don’t think you always have to be a b***h to get ahead just realistic and hardworking!
I want to be in the frontrow for this one!!
Excellent article, and I understand your admiration. Sorry, but I just can’t get past her attitude on the use of fur in the fashion industry. With her power, one word from her and that would be the end of it. It makes me sad.
Can’t wait to see it! Not out in Ireland yet.
the post is really cool. fashion lovers must see this web site too!
Excellent post and insight into the fashion industry.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The fur on the scarf in fist pic and on the coat on second pic is more than cool!!
hmm, very offical pose she did there