One Big, Beautiful Light

2, November 2009

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So I’ve been really busy lately. For one, we’ve been planning the seminar that’s taking place this up-coming weekend, November 7th and 8th. We’re almost sold out, which is exciting and I want to thank all of you who have purchased tickets and are planning on attending! It’s going to be really fun, the models are GREAT and the studio we’re using is just A+ professional, as are the people who run Smashbox. Secondly, I have been spending ALOT of time SHOOTING SHOOTING and SHOOTING some more! Here are some new pictures along with a Lighting Diagram on a test I did with just 1 Big Beautiful Light!

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I recently decided to start working with Maria Bianco at Blur Production. Maria has a long resume of working with photographers and ad agencies as both an agent and a producer. Maria approached me to work with me and after our first phone conversation, I was convinced! We met briefly before she took off to Chicago, in the meantime, I had an ad agency in Europe ask me to put together an estimate on an image and I immediately called Maria to help me with it. We bonded through the experience and I was eager to start working with her when she got back in August.

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The one thing Maria wanted a hand in was the organizing of my portfolio, the most important selling object a photographer has. I brought my book over to her office and she immediately grabbed the post-its and started tagging the pictures that she wanted out of my book. Honestly, I love that! I need a seasoned voice, someone who is emotionally removed from the images and who knows what art buyers and editors are looking for. Often times, as photographers, we are too attached to a photograph and it isn’t representing us in the best light or in the direction we are heading in. I can handle a harsh critique of my work, I welcome it! And while she wasn’t mean about it, she did point out some things that I hadn’t realized until her critique. One thing she said to me was that my work had this very “dark” almost Gothic feel to it and it was overpowering my book.

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I believe that art imitates life, in other words, we tend to create art that mimics what is going on in our own lives. My father passed away almost 2 years ago and the experience of being with him in his last 6 months was very powerful. I literally put all things aside to be with my dad as he prepared to die. It isn’t something I really want to go into here, but the experience was incredibly cathartic. I have written before how my father was the one who convinced me to become a fashion photographer and was incredibly supportive of my career choice. It’s the one thing I am so grateful for as I know there are people when starting out who’s peers or parents are strongly against them going into such a competive and financially unpredictable field. At any rate, back to the portfolio, the sadness and grief I experience of losing my father translated itself on to my work and my work did have this “heavy”, “dark” feel to it. And it was consistent. However, in my personal life, I am fairly happy. I love to laugh, I’m surrounded by great people and friends who really love me. My own world is not so dark. And my old work was beginning to feel contradictory to how I really see things. Maria suggested shooting a fashion editorial test for my book in the way that was much brighter and more approachable and this shoot here with Sarah Deanna is the first of many tests that are keeping me busy these days but also really inspiring me as an artist!

One Big Beautiful Light - Lighting Diagram

(Lighting Diagram)

I used one light. The Elinchrom Rotalux 39-Inch Deep Throat Octagonal Softbox on a Profoto Head. That’s it! I placed it above the models head, about 6 feet away from her. She stood near the background so we had a nice short shadow. Again, I cannot empathize it enough how important my crew is. Having the best model, hair stylist, make up artist and wardrobe stylist is tantamount to having a successful fashion shoot. I worked with Sarah Deanna again, from LA Models. You remember Sarah from the Mechar Handbag shoot? After we worked together that day, we have wanted to shoot a test together and we finally were able to pull it off 4 months later! I worked with Steve David from Artists by Next who did Sarah Deanna’s hair and Heather Kubly-Pepe who did the make up. Both Heather and Steve are just geniuses when it comes to their craft. George Blodwell was kind of enough to lend his styling wizardry for my test. The whole team pulled together and we produced a stellar test for my book. I had 10 shots retouched, only 4 will go in my portfolio, 8 will go on my website. My website, incidentally, is being updated and moved over to Viewbook! I love the guys at Viewbook, they are so helpful and nice. But I what I really love is the ability to manage my own site from now on!!! No more having to beg David to upload images  or take down images that are updated. It’s so nice to have that freedom now!

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All images from this shoot were shot on my Nikon D2x with my 85mm/1.4 lens. I shot at f10 at 1/250 of a second. The studio was a daylight studio when we entered it, I had them black it out. I think that’s it, as far as technical information. I think the most important information here is to always use the best talent you can get!

sarahdeanna-7(ALL IMAGES ©2009 Melissa Rodwell Photography)


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70 Responses to “One Big, Beautiful Light”

  • Alex Says:

    Yeah, this is a much lighter style, but has your flare. Excellent work, and thanks for posting the technical details.

  • Maria~ Says:

    Spectacular Work……..As Always!!….. Thank You
    M~

  • Greg Says:

    Very nice…I _love_ the Elinchrom deep octa! So versatile.

  • Jacob Pressley Says:

    Bravissima! As ever, I love the images, the concept, fasion, execution! Coincidentally I’m shooting in San Fran tomorrow with a single light (traveling light/no rental budget) so this is most instructive/inspiring. Thank you!

  • Adam Goodwin Says:

    Hi Melissa,

    Ive been reading you blog for awhile now and I’m finally getting round to saying hello!

    I love the fact that you have simplified things here. It just goes to show with the right team in the studio you can create stunning images without over compicating the lighting. Amazing images! Really fresh and clean.

    I’m not that familer with the ‘Deep Throat Octa’ …. dose the depth of the softbox make it directional as well as a soft light?

    Thanks again for sharing your knowlege on all aspects of the indusrty.

    Regards,

    Adam G.

  • Errol Dunlap Says:

    Hey Melissa,

    Another great post! I will surely invest in the deep throat softbox. You are truly right about having the right team! You have excellent interpersonal skills!

    I am curious though…what are the power ranges you use for your strobes? I have two 300w (promasters) and two 200w (calumet genesis) strobes in my collection. I would like something more powerful, but I’m not sure which direction I need to be in since i’m so new in the fashion photography.

    Thanks and I look forward to taking your seminars soon!

  • Nick Lovell Says:

    Love it! Was a reflector used, or is there any white wall to the model’s right (camera left) that is filling in that side?

  • Scott Says:

    Holy Smokes… I am a big proponent of simpler is better and this is knockout gorgeous! Thanks Melissa.

  • Amelia Says:

    Fantastic work, Melissa, as always…

    Regards,

    Amelia

  • Dannyjive Says:

    Is that a mace she’s holding? Could be a purse. Either way I love it, lol. These images look great. It’s amazing what you can do with a single light and a great team. Great work Melissa!

  • NICOLAS Says:

    YOU ROCK,ROCK,ROCK THANK YOU! KEEP IT UP.

  • Robert McCadden Says:

    I have tried similar lighting setups and got way more light fall off from head to toe. Assuming a 45 degree vertical angle the light would be 6′ away from her head and about 8.5 feet away from her feet which would mean her feet are getting roughly half the light as her head. I’m just trying to figure out what you (or perhaps David) did differently which made it look so good.

  • Dave Shiel Says:

    Hey Melissa,

    Super images from such a simple setup. Inspirational. I may be doing a shoot soon, if so, I am defo going to try this out.

    Thanks again!
    Dave.

  • Marc Pritchard Says:

    Gotta love some simple but effective lighting! Nice insight into the link between personal life and work, something I must look at myself!
    I find it challenging to try and re-invent my style of photograph, do you find it easy moving from a dark look to something a bit more upbeat? :D

  • Fashion Photographer Jerry Avenaim Says:

    Very lighting 2.0 well done Melissa!

  • Melissa H Says:

    One light and the background looks so smooth and white, so cool! The light on her skin is lovely, and the styling is fabulous! I am curious, as a professional photographer, do you shoot pretty much every single day? Or do you have time in between to plan and recharge creatively? Do you have any advice for tackling a busy schedule?

    Thank you! :)

  • Ashley Quentin Says:

    Melissa! Such a wonderful and information post! Great tips~ You are ALWAYS such an inspiration to me!

  • Gerard Says:

    Awesome… Now I just need to save some money up and buy me one of those Elinchrom’s ;)

  • Brandon Glassell Says:

    STUNNING IMAGES!

  • Brian Morris Says:

    I am so stoked to have stumbled across your blog. Beautiful work
    Stunning lines and very keen eye with attention to detail from this team.

    I hope to meet you some day

    Brian

  • Alex Says:

    I’m a total sucker for heavy contrast imagery like this black and white theme. LOVE IT! Well done….and I’m so getting a morning star!

  • Amanda thomas Says:

    Hi Melissa,
    I really love the test shots. It still has your feel/style without being too different from your earlier work. Working with a professional team goes a long way to making a great shot. The stylist has to have your vision as does the make-up artist. Being a great photographer with a good idea isn’t enough and you have pulled together a really good group of talented people.

    Nice one!

    Amanda

  • DJH Says:

    I got the Elinchrom. What outage is the light?

  • Serge Neri Says:

    Do you pay your crew or do they all do it just for the images?

  • DDominik Says:

    Great pictures Melissa!
    I’m curious about one thing.
    How do you deal with the white background?
    Do you burn it or light it properly… or you don’t care about it too much, cause it can easily be done in post-production?
    I’m asking because I don’t have many strobes so i usually burn the background with one light… it almost always works but sometimes it makes it hard to balance tones while retouching… I’m just curious which technique is the best.

    Regards
    Dominik

  • admin Says:

    Hey DDominik: I didn’t light the background, per se. The light was close to the model who was close to the background so the main light was basically lighting the background as well. Nothing was done in post except cleaning up the footmarks made on the seamless during the shoot!

    Serge: I usually pay my crew except when we do a test for our portfolios. But to get to the level of being able to get a GREAT crew together to test for our books is that by now my team knows that my model, my stylist, my hair and my make up are all going to be the best in the industry so there is very little gamble. It’s pretty much a sure bet that they will come away with photos they can use in their books. Nobody wastes their time at my level.

    Nick: No reflector was used. And she was far from the walls. There was a natural reflection from the ground from the light and it’s angle but that’s it.

    I completely forgot the power of my strobes, I’ll remember next time, I promise. I think it was around 1,000 watts.

    Jerry Avenaim: You’re a rock star and I’m honored that you’re on my blog! Everyone go check out his work: http://www.jerryavenaim.com/
    He’s incredibly talented!

    Thanks for all the nice comments! Again, without the crew I had, it wouldn’t have turned out as well!

  • admin Says:

    Ohh..Marc Pritchard: Yes, I have found it easy to reinvent myself but you have to believe it to be authentic. If, say, my rep or a consultant told me I should shoot in a way that didn’t feel right to me, I couldn’t “fake” it. I wouldn’t even have the incentive to do it. But bringing things into the light, instead of being so dark and moody, well, there’s still a mood, there’s still my vibe, my style, it’s just lit differently.

    Melissa H: I don’t shoot everyday, most of the time. So I do have time to recharge. My advice on tackling a busy schedule. Well, I’m up at 5 or 6 AM and I have a schedule that I really try to stick to. I’m extremely motivated and focused right now. So I actually will write down the things I have to do, I keep a google calendar and I stick to what needs to be done.

    Jacob: How was SF? I haven’t received any more IM’s from you..lol….dying to hear!

  • Quentin Guillory Says:

    Wonderful post. and as always great images.

  • DantePasquale Says:

    Melissa, very inspiring. I always learn something from your posts and really enjoy reading them. Thanks for the pointer to Jerry Avenaim – love his work, too.

  • Alex Maxim Photography Says:

    Nice work! Great simple lighting. Skin looks a little overexposed on some images.

  • Avr photography Says:

    Cool!! i really luv your photos.
    Thanks you for share the technical details.

  • DJH Says:

    Aaah.

    1000 watts. Cheers. Love the blog, I stumbled across your work the other day, then realised it was you :-)

    My light is 500, but now I know I have no excuse for getting decent images with just the one light and the same Octa too. Damn you Melissa, I can’t blame anyone or anything now..

  • DJH Says:

    Disagreee with the overexposure. I’ve had the light produce similar results and it’s spot on exposure but looks overexposed at 1st glance.

    Did you have the diffusor on?

  • Tiffany Westen Says:

    WOW! The pictures are awesome!
    I haven’t any knowledge about photography, but I like what I see ;)
    And the outfit of the model is hot! She’s incredible!

  • Miss Ernie Says:

    Amazing shots! You have an awesomely, talented team to work with. Kudos to all of you!

  • admin Says:

    Yes, I used the two diffusers!

  • Roger Mann Says:

    Must get a deep throat. That is one boss of a light and unless you’ve had it edited out the shadow is so very subtle. I’m guessing the white backdrop gave some level of reflective quality also.

    High-end work as usual.

  • Antonio Barros Says:

    Amazing light! :)
    Fabulous blog!!!

  • Melly Lee Says:

    Thanks for sharing this :D its nice seeing the beauty of a simple light setup. and by simple i just mean one light

  • Nikolas Says:

    very marvelous work, beautiful photo

  • Mark Says:

    Really great results from one light.

  • Kirk Says:

    This is amazing. The photography, the model, the lighting and the easy to digest information on the setup. Thanks!

  • Tru Ferguson Says:

    Amazing job… your team rocks and i totally agree with you on their importance.

    I am in the same place as you, realizing my work has a dark look… i sometimes cant help it…when the lighting is too light or even, it makes me thing commercial and boring. I am learning about my style that i like hard light and contrast/ that shadow defines a image for me.
    I now am about to do just as you are …exploring how to shoot lighter but still define an image.
    It is hard to get really honest feedback on my portfolio.. sometimes agent don’t have time to meet with you.There are very very few in Toronto.
    How do you suggest Newbies handle getting the feedback they need in order to grow.

  • Paul Bates Says:

    Great pictures!

    Everything goes together very well and the lighting is perfect. Looks edgy and soft at the same time.

  • Kenny Says:

    Wow really great photo

    Kenny

  • Jonathan Dear Says:

    Id love to see what you could do with the 43.5″ Mola Mantti!! Gorgeous!

  • walid azami Says:

    Yes brighter but still has your style all over it. Congrats.

  • Stefanie Says:

    I love these pictures, especially the first one. Thanks for sharing the information of your setup. Totally agree with you about having a great for making such impressive pictures.

  • Adam Says:

    This is truly great work, I love the angles and the clean light I think it would speak volumes to advertisers. Thanks also for sharing the tech side of it.

  • Ian Warren Says:

    Hate to ask but how much post work did you do on the background? Is that shadow and the pure white background straight out the camera or did you clean it up afterwards?

  • Giuseppe Luzio Says:

    This is sheer effin proof that simplicity is the ultimate sophistication. I always get so caught up with how many lights, where to place them, rim lights, fills, etc, etc. Then I come across work like this and makes me smash my head against the wall for being so silly!

    Thank you for this post

    carbondecay.com

  • David Says:

    Wonderful work and I love the makeup tone. I’m a huge fan of the single big octabox. Don’t over-egg the pudding I say.

  • Alicia Says:

    FANTASTIC!!!!!

  • Brian Frænde - photographer Says:

    Really nice article, and great test-shots!. I love the styling of the hair – very nice job done there as well!

  • Evert Says:

    had to catch up on your blog and just saw this; great picture and it shows a great photographer doesn’t per se needs dozens of lights to get a great shot.

    And yes that deep octa thing is incredible; my favorite modifier for sure!

  • Xavier Says:

    The shoot is nothing special. in fact i found it quite obvious/boring. And the light is so “killer”. I mean, it kills the subject. I will call this,… porno lightning: No suggestion, just shows it all. Guys, photography is not about technic, no matter if you use 1 light or 30, it can be crap or great in both situations. Is not about rules, is about sensibility, i think. And on fashion, more than on any other, runaway from being obvious.

    Kind regards.

  • Tony Says:

    very beautiful. like the pose of each photo

  • Ryan Says:

    Very Nice its very beautiful

  • Sean Shimmel Says:

    What Sage-like simplicity. Yet you seem so (wonderfully) casual and breezy. What an intriguing mix

  • photorelive Says:

    really very nice pictures for a model

  • Eric Geidl Says:

    Melissa, thank you so much for this post. The photos are amazing.
    I have received my Elinchrome flashes recently and will give it a try with the Deep Throat Thursday. Just one beautiful light !

  • Anne-Ma Says:

    Like it! Actually, love it! The light is so beautiful!

  • SpringHow To’s and Must Have’s « TaylorMade Says:

    [...] photography is another easy and simple way to get inspired by!  Blogs like Lookbook and FP are great sources.  Remember it is all in the details, a ring or an eyeshadow color can be the [...]

  • Aruna K Says:

    Great images, beautiful models and fantastic lighting.

  • Ryan Says:

    great model

  • Wedding Photographer French Riviera Says:

    Splendid! Fantastic model who really does seem to enjoy herself and is doing some wild things.

    The photo of her with the fur coat made me think of Cruela of the 101 Dalmatians – the blend of the coat and hair stlye. Probably a much younger version of Cruela though :)

  • Neil Mackenzie Says:

    Great images, less is more!

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