Getting your Foot in the Door Isn’t that Scary!
One of my blog readers, Troy Copes, wrote to me recently and suggested I write a post about how to approach modeling agencies. In truth, I have gotten a fair amount of emails asking the same question. So I thought I’d try to answer the question and post some of my early work from my first portfolio, the very same portfolio that I used to get my own foot in the door of the modeling agencies. Keep in mind, I first approached modeling agencies back in the late ’80′s and early ’90′s. Also keep in mind that this is just from my personal experience. I can only write about what I have experienced myself. And it’s been a few years since I first started out…….but hopefully you’ll find some useful information in the post!
Starting Out
I remember it was a pretty daunting experience to approach an agency like Ford or Wilhelmina. You’re at the point where you NEED good models for your book and while you’re not exactly booking big money jobs, your portfolio is at a place where pro models are the next step in furthering your work and your career. I am not sure why agencies can be intimidating and trust me, I’m trying to remember my early fears of them and why I was so shy. Maybe it’s from the stand point of the agency having something you need and you know that you don’t have a lot of money to offer or jobs on the table to make it worth their while to send good models your way. But you have to start somewhere so making those initial calls HAS to be done. First of all, remember, not everyone out there is going to fall all over themselves to help you. And not everyone out there is going to think your work is utterly amazing. There will be some agencies that really like you and your work and will want to help you, while others may not show that much interest. That’s okay. Obviously, stick with the agencies that show interest in having you test with some of their new faces and start to develop relationships with those bookers.
Contacting the Agency
Before you approach any agency you have to have a website to refer the bookers to. You would call the agency and ask to speak to the booker in charge of new faces. After introducing yourself, ask him or her if you can get their email so you can send them your website. In the email to them, keep it short and sweet. Don’t send them paragraphs of personal information about your life and your vision. They don’t care. All they care about is if your work is good enough for them to take a chance with you by sending you some of their girls that need to test for their books. So in your email, introduce yourself, give them the link to your site, offer to come in and show them your print portfolio, thank them for their time and consideration and wish them a good day. That’s all you need to do in the beginning. If they’re interested in working with you, they’ll email you back or call you. It’s that simple, really.
Fogettah Bout’ It!
In the early days, I clicked immediately with some bookers and was able to really start testing with some very good, professional models right away. And then again, there were some agencies that just simply weren’t that interested in working with me. Even today, I click with some bookers and approach them first when I have a job or even if I feel like testing. And then I send out the casting call to the others. Some bookers I’ve met and I’ve known for 20 years. Some bookers I’ve never met in person but we have a strong on-line relationship. I make an effort to go out and meet the bookers at some point because I think it’s still important to introduce myself to people in the industry. It’s not a daunting experience for me anymore but I’ve developed a thicker skin at this point and I know deep down that some people are going to love my work and some people aren’t going to “get it”. That’s okay nowadays. But when I was younger and more insecure, it was really intimidating. All I can say is that after time you will become aware of this fact and it will get easier to approach the agencies.
To Print or Not to Print?
I still think it’s important to have a print portfolio. I was recently in New York and took my print book to all the agencies when I went to introduce myself. I recently bought an iPad ( I know….I’m such an apple groupie ) and I will probably start carrying that around with me on appointments from now on. But I will continue to keep my print book updated and carry that with me as well on most appointments. The one thing I think the iPad will be great for is presentations for clients and editors. I’m not sure about Fed Ex’ing an iPad to a potential client yet. I’ve been reading about it on other blogs but I don’t feel comfortable with the idea at this point. But it’s definitely something I will use in meetings when discussing upcoming projects.
If at First You Don’t Succeed…
Most fears are conquered by just facing them down. I have found through experience that overplaying a scenario that intimidates me in my mind over and over again is far worse in my head than the actual situation ends up turning out. Find the best local modeling agencies in your area and then start calling them one by one. You can always ask the receptionist for the email of the booker you wish to contact, sometimes they will give it to you. Or you can ask the receptionist what the agency’s protocol is for potential photographers that want to test. Some agencies have an open call day where you go in during certain times to show your book. It just can’t hurt to ask. And you’re not the first photographer who has called asking to test their models. One thing that goes without saying, and again, this is just my humble opinion but I wouldn’t try to get my foot in the door of an agency you wish to test with by asking to do paid tests. A paid test is where the model pays the photographer for pictures for her book. Start out by offering to test for free and after time, when you’ve built a good relationship with the agency, THEN you can start asking for payment. Again, all of this is just my own opinion and advice. Other photographers might tell you differently!
(All Images © Melissa Rodwell Photography 2010)
great article..keep them coming..:)
Can I just ask. Where/What does being able to do test with modelling agencies? I am new to all this and I don’t know where to begin to approaching e.g model agencies, photography agencies e.t.c Im just shooting at the moment as much as I can but will be thinking of this in the near future.
Thanks for all your help and guidance..
Where/What does it get you is what I meant to ask?
Brilliant article just the info i needed wright now
I am now interested in aproaching agency’s etc
great work Melissa.
Alex.
DJH… It’s about several positive reasons really. For a start its the opportunity to get some good experience working with real models, whether they themselves are just starting out or a little more experienced. It’s shooting someone who knows how to move in front of the camera, you’d be amazed how different it is when you don’t have to direct every movement. It’s also about being able to get some practice and knowledge about different lighting situations, and steadily build your book to something you can feel confident about approaching agencies with (if that is your desired direction)
It’s all about helping each other out in this industry. You work for free for your book, the model works for free for their book, if you know where to source it, the make up and stylist work for free for their books.
Everyone has to start somewhere.
Thanks, Russell, that was a great explanation! I was jumping on here to answer DJH and you explained it great!
Yet another great article… thank you for sharing your experience and insights, it really helps me as a newb who is trying to get in the industry.
No problem – it’s where I’m at right now.
If you ever do Sydney, I’ll assist
………Thank You Great Article : )
Couldn’t have said it better myself! I completely agree
SO well written. Love you Melissa!!! 
Hope you are having a BLAST in NY!
Very insightful!
Loved the post. I just wished I lived in a town that had model agencies ha
JaneAnne
Good article, thanks for sharing!
always so open, always stellar information and always…beautiful, edgy, fresh, inspiring imagery.
gina
Share your photos with class to talent agencies, family and friends with the most unique method around. Quick, easy and simple. All will appreciate you for your kindness.
in response to JaneAnne, models live all over I live no where near my agency. Never hurts to check and see if anyone lives close enough to work with!
Great article Melissa!
I’ve never bothered approaching model agencies before, as their models have always been out of my tiny budget range. Your article has inspired me to contact all my local agencies.
Here’s hoping one of them will like my work.
Thank you for the great advice you keep giving us.
Regards
Heinz
Thanks a lot to share your experience as always
Quang
Here’s a related question – if anyone has any ideas…
Let’s say you get your foot in the door for testing new models, what type of images do modelling agencies typically expect? Simple grey seamless, full length shots, a few close-ups? Or is it more open creatively?
Thank you for this article, Melissa! It has given me a good place to start! Thank you again!
Great post Melissa!
What’s more. . . you’ve quadrupled a recent jonesing I’ve had to shoot some early 90s style stuff :p hehehe
Wyoming: From my experience, they just want plain simple shots – nothing too fancy or experimental – clean basic lighting, clean backgrounds, some mid-lengths, close-ups and full-lengths. You have to let go of your ‘over-creative’ and technical instincts and let the “model” be the highlight of the images. My suggestion to you is to visit the agencies and beg/borrow/steal their com-cards and see them as references.
I have just recently signed up with Elite to teach their new models how to Pose for a Photo-session, its part of their course (its the Elite School), its a big name and it will help me get in touch with new models and give good pictures in return. Not to mention that I am getting paid to take each class. I just gave them a cold call, went there for a meeting. They obviously figured that I’m new to Fashion, but were impressed with some of my other work and gave me an opportunity to join the school. They have two Photographers signed up with them, exclusively, who shoot their campaigns and editorials. My next step is to get on that list after I have my portfolio ready.
Melissa: Your blog has inspired me to leave my camera aside and pick up a fashion magazine, meet fashion designers, visit fashion shows, become more fashionable myself and now I’m so interested in fashion so much that I am leaving my other clients aside and planning to get big-time into shooting high-end fashion. I can look at a garment in a Photograph instantly and say if its good or bad. I don’t care about the lighting anymore. I don’t care about the f-stop, camera, lens and white balance. That’s my learning and I will thank you for life.
Melissa,
Thank you so much for writing this and to the many emailers who asked about this very topic. I’m a photographer trying to break into the Fashion Photography industry and this is invaluable to me because I just recently made the decision to relocate to Los Angeles (sucks that I’ll have missed you though).
I’m currently in Cincinnati (hometown) and while I have some great images in my port, frankly the models aren’t very good here. Little to no professional experience, not industry standard body types, etc etc etc. Also, there aren’t any great makeup artists or hair and clothing stylists here. I’m hoping to come to LA and really improve my port with help from the great talent in the city. I know that I can always find models to work with from Model Mayhem, but it’s great to know that I can approach a professional agency and possibly get the opportunity to work with higher caliber models.
Again, thank you so much for writing this. I’m definitely bookmarking this entry…..
Frank
+1 to Vineet’s comment, with one addition.
It varies agency to agency.
I work a lot with l.a. models (their taste perfectly matches with mine) and from them, to Ford, to Elite, to NEXT, etc., each agency pushes different looks, as wel as which coast you’re on. Melissa’s post of ‘Location’ points this out exquisitely. If you’re based in New York, they are more prone towards edgier work; unfortunately on the west coast they do prefer safer stuff. . . however
that doesn’t meant you can’t tell an assistant (or yourself) to quickly change a lighting setup, towards the end of a shot, to garner that sort of an image. Despite supporting myself as freelance I still assist one guy who does this ALL the time, with paying clients to boot. 
Thanks for the info!!
Ok.
Thanks guys, never thought it was a bad thing but curious as to where it would take you/one and in what direction. I 2nd the fact of pro models being able to move in front of the camera, worked with a few models and it’s been hard directing them, but thats all part of it, when I know what I want it might be easier
I’ll get shooting..
D
I’ve been looking for a post like this forever, something that just outlines how to do it and exactly what kind of relationship you need with an agency, thanks very much!
Awesome insight and information as usual! I’ve been reading the blog and following the tutorials since the beginning and consider myself having learned a ton, thanks again! I must admit I’m a little confused about this subject though because here you say essentially you don’t advse seeking payment for testing right away and before I recall you saying that basically the level you approach or begin working/testing with agencies is where you’ll stay at (nonpaid or paid). If you could please offer some further insight and clarification it would be greatly appreciated?!
what is this testing you speak of?……………………………………………………………………………….
Hi Pierre! I just sent you an email but for everyone to see what I basically told Pierre: When I wrote about entering an agency at a strong level I was writing about seeking work from Advertising agencies, not modeling agencies. Totally two separate things!
this post was so helpful! i’m a portrait and wedding photog but am toying around with the idea of doing fashion type stuff. thanks for this post!
I don;t think that you are right, have you truly viewed the details?
Good post and this post helped me alot in my college assignement. Gratefulness you for your information.
It’s good to know the photographers I’m awed by and am anxious to approach are or were the same about agencies. Puts an interesting slant on it for me, thanks Melissa.
What an excellent and informatative post thank you! Exactly what I needed right now.
priceless info thx again melissa
Definitely going to get myself an ipad… Books are just too expensive to print anymore.
Good post Melissa! I linked to it from my FB!
Hi, Melissa. Firs of all I want to say that your blog is just awesome. Thank you for writing it.
And I have a question. Is it possible to be a successful fashion photographer without owning a studio? I found my self to feel much more comfortable while shooting on location – loft, park, beach, street, etc. And now I’m thinking about jumping into fashion photography. But what holds me back (in my head at least) is that I don’t have a studio. So, is studio a necessary thing to have?
Provide a portfolio or composite of your photo materials. Get good quality photos to get started. The better quality (more professional and creative) photos you have in your portfolio the better paying jobs you will get.
Thanks! Very useful– as usual
Good article! As a photographer who’s building a book with good agency girls. I can second the location/agency preference Kurt brought up. Even different bookers will like different shots, on the same shoot! With that being said, it is all about the girl — at the end of the day, we’re trying to make them look beautiful and capture a moment. We’re not trying to sell clothes, and we’re not trying to show off. I know I need to get at least 2-3 good, usable, images from a shoot, Ones I know the agency will like. Then I can do whatever I want.
i love, thanks
thanks for sharing, great advise as ever. iPad will rule when it gets a decent app for showing work, also you have to be careful how you create your files as this can degrade the quality big time, aperture seems to give best results, but have to mess with preview preferences to get best files, and dare i say it, a few inches bigger would be awesome…..
Thanks for the article, always love your work
Hi Melissa,
Just to let you know I took your advice to heart. Last Sunday I met with Maverick Model Agency in Manchester UK and showed them my portfolio. They were impressed and are having me test their new models.
Thank you for the ‘kick up the butt’.
Regards
Heinz
Ah!
Nice and of course interesting article.
Many thanks for sharing.
Regards, Sören
Thanks for this guide.
Thank you so much for making this information available. There are too many fly by night modeling agencies out there that give the reputable ones a bad name. I have had a lot of friends who modeled, and by just spending a little money on decent headshots and portfolio is often good enough to get a call to come in. Excellent info. Thank you!
Many thanks for this inspiring message, it has given me the confidence to start approaching local agencies, then hopefully later in the year I will start to approach the big London agencies!
Thank you!
This was a very informative piece of information. I’m so glad I did a search and found it. I’m at the beginning stages of things and trying to figure things out on your own is nerve wracking! And I will definitely follow the advice you gave on getting models in order to build up a portfolio.
Great article!!! Swear! You really are helping us out!
Thanks Melissa! Using your advice I started contacting Agencies in NYC. I already have an agency that contacted me for a test shoot. They asked me if I have a team that I work with (Hair, MUA & Stylist) I really don’t have people that I normally work with. Should I just tell the agency that I don’t have a team, hoping that they can send me contacts. Or should I just try to put together?
I think you have offered great advice!
amazing photography!
This a very good article and certainly gives some good pointers. I am lucky to have a clothing and jewellery site and models are sometimes happy to shoot in exchange of pictures and/or being featured on the site. My next steps is to get commisioned for fashion shoots and not just jewellery product shots.
This is a great article. I think that learning other photographer’s personal experiences can shed some light on our own individual situations and help us make more informed decisions.
Thank you for your words Melissa, I really appreciated this post. I just moved to NYC, I am getting my masters at SVA, and I am at the point where my book needs professional models, but am uncertain and nervous about approaching agencies. This really helped get a perspective on it.
Hey everyone, can someone explain a bit more about the bookers? I’m still a little confused about what to say when I call the modelling agency. Please give me a script! Thankyou!
great article and gives some very good and clear pointers to think about and put into action!
Great article , it will definitely help those people a beginner photography , and this article can better help them how they can approach agencies and can start their nonprofessional carrier.
Thank you for this.. I’m in the process of building my portfolio and finding my own style. I’ve been in contact is several agencies because of the photographer I currently work for and the first time I spoke with them I was incredibly nervous. Even though I wasn’t scheduling go see’s and booking models for myself, I feel a lot more comfortable now talking to the agencies. I really appreciate this post! Hopefully I’ll be at this stage within the next few months.. thanks!
THANK YOU for taking the time to put this blog together – I’m looking forward to reading more.
I have a test shoot with an Agency scheduled for 11/13/10 (they decided to add another staff photographer and called me to schedule the test shoot). I had done one shoot as a backup photographer for them a few months ago. I asked them for feedback as I had never shot fashion before. They made a few suggestions such as using a reflector in natural light, giving the models clear directions as to how *I* wanted them to pose and being prepared to professionally retouch my photos. But they also encouraged me to pursue fashion photography.
I work with no lighting, backdrops or expensive lenses. Hopefully I’ll be in a position to add that kind of gear at a later date.
I wanted to let the other photographers here know that I got in through the back door. When my boyfriend decided he wanted to shoot professional video jobs, he offered to do events for free for several organizations. That grew into networking and produced paying jobs. It was my boyfriend who invited me to the first shoot at the Agency.
Best of luck, everyone!
I saw someone ask about putting together a fashion team, so I wanted to offer a suggestion: I’m a licensed Cosmetologist and Instructor/Trainee at Kenneth Shuler Schools of Cosmetology in SC. There are awesome students looking for opportunities. You would also meet talented individuals at hair shows or state competitions. There are categories for Total Look, Fantasy, etc. One of my friends (Richard Sims, also a licensed Cosmetologist) was hired to do runway training for the same agency that I’m doing the test shoot for.
Great Article!!!
For me I feel that assisting is the first step….
Is there any suggestions to find fashion photographers that are willing to add another assistant??
Just moved to chicago area and have no network….
[...] Approaching the Modeling Agencies, by Melissa Rodwell 8/3/2010 [...]
I need to start testing with agencies. It’s funny, I keep re-reading this article and know I should just get my finger out and get on with it. Procrastination! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks – your article helped me gain some confidence.
Good information. This article help beginners. Now a days the best way to approach modeling agencies is to approach them online.Get online information about the company. Register yourself, add pictures to picture gallery than agencies will call you by themselves. You don’t have to go here & there.Isn’t it good and much safer approach.
[...] Approaching Modeling Agencies | fashionphotographyblog.com [...]
As always, the information you give is invaluable, I can’t express how amazing your work is.